Tuesday, October 27, 2009

Not English

I don't do the lesson plans for my schools, so often when I arrive and consult with my JTE about the lesson of the day I get a big surprise. Sometimes bigger than others. Often I engage in activities that can only be classified as "Not English". Japanese schools love to put on festivals and activities and such which require the kids to learn a dance or song or make a presentation that deviates from the normal course of study.

For example, in a previous post I mentioned gathering chestnuts with the kids. This was at Takao Elementary, one of my favorite schools but also one that likes to deviate from English class the greatest (shame on you, Takao). One day I arrived and was informed that we were going to carve flutes out of bamboo. The week before last I made chestnut onigiri, and in the next class we literally separated grains of rice with chopsticks. You see, as I said before Nita rice is supposedly very famous and tasty. Takao area is sending some of its rice to the National Rice Tasting Competition in Fukushima Prefecture, which is quite a trip for our little rice. In preparation for this even we poured tablespoons of rice into petri dish type things and inspected it thoroughly- picking out any grains that were too green or brown or had any sort of imperfection. I can say with confidence that I am a chopstick maven when I can pick up tiny grains of rice only using these slippery utensils. Take that, Japan.

I digress. Anyway, at Fuse Elementary our Not English activity is the Macarena. At the end of the month there will be a cultural festival- there will be a person from China, Russia, and England (and America of course- represent!) coming to teach traditional culture from their country. The teacher asked if there were any special dances from America. Now, since I don't really know square or line dancing- and since even if I did I would not infect Japan with this knowledge- I said that I suppose the Electric Slide might be a fun dance. This drew a big blank from my teacher's face. So I said the Macarena was very popular in America (I remember in middle school dancing to that song with my friend Jenni after school until we collapsed in giggles and exhaustion) and his eyes lit up. "Yes yes, let's choose the Macarena!" he exclaimed. So yesterday's class was spent teaching the kids the Macarena.

A few weeks ago at Nita three periods were cancelled due to a road race. I walked in to school that morning not knowing that a race was going to be held- but it was a crisp beautiful autumn day and I asked if I could go grab my running shoes. They were very happy for me to run too (teachers here opt out of the race- I was the only one who volunteered) and so I got to participate. It was only 1.8 kilometers which is about 1.1 miles, but believe me, it hurt. The course featured two killer hills, and although I run a lot, I like to consider myself a turtle runner. I can run slowly for any length of time, but speed kills, man. That day I had to prove myself as a runner and therefore attempt to run quickly. I finished 40th out of over 120 girls so I was content, even though the rest of the day I could not breathe. Ah, running.

Last week at Ai Elementary there was an openhouse for all the parents. Each grade put on its own presentation and parents were encouraged to go around a look at all the cool exhibits. And they were actually very cool. I went around with a lady who lives nearby that I've met before, and she helped explain everything in simpler Japanese for me. There was an exhibit about different kinds of rice where we got to taste Rice Ice Cream (which actually tasted more like frozen rice pudding), there was a kanji quiz (I answered two questions right, hell yes), an car race track made out of cardboard and plastic bottle cars- you name it, they thought of it. My favorite exhibit was probably one that gave a thorough explanation of poop. In Japan poop is not as taboo as it is in America. It's just a normal and slightly funny bodily function. I am pretty sure a poop exhibit in a school in the states would not go over so well. Anyway the kids explained the difference between healthy poop and poop that meant that your body was sick. Afterwards we got to make some poop. They handed us some sweet potatoes in ziplock bags (one mother commented that if she ate the sweet potato she would make some poop for tomorrow- hilarious) and smashed it up. We then added water and brown paint and- voila! Healthy poop.

Today Kamedake Elementary was cancelled due to some similar school festival, and I was asked once again to film an episode of Attack English. The original name for my short series was Attack Natalie!, but I explained that in English that sounds kind of funny ( I don't want to encourage people to beat me up on the streets) so they chose
Attackレポート どげなかEnglish

which translates roughly to Attack Report English. The first two episodes were filmed at Nita Middle school during volleyball practice. They chose this setting because the students were already used to me- I am naturally a bit of a shock and they don't want to set me loose on an unsuspecting Japanese world. This time we went to Ai Grocery Store which is about two minutes from my house and therefore where I do a lot of my shopping. I do not like to be filmed, and I hate to see my face on television. But I know that this is a good opportunity and that the people around here get a kick out of it, so I comply. Anyway, now I can say I have my own TV show in Japan. Who else can say that?

Today in Takao we are going to the Rice Center to send off our painstakingly accumulated creme de la creme Takao Rice. Afterwards I am going with the Superintendent to go apple picking.

Life out here sure is an interesting adventure.

Sunday, October 25, 2009

Saturday, October 17, 2009

Tottori Sand Dunes/鳥取県砂丘 (P.S. I love you camel)

I have received several e-mails from my former host sister, Risa Miyake, since coming to Shimane. Now I met Risa about six years ago the first time I came to Japan to Hiroshima Prefecture with my fearless Sensei Leader, Mrs. Countryman, and our gang of genki gaijin (lively foreigners). Her family took me in as their own daughter and were kinder to me than I can ever repay them for. The last time I came to Japan I was in Tokyo for a few months- and Risa and her Mother took the bullet train from Hiroshima to Tokyo to visit me. Once again, they were so kind to me. I am lucky to have such good people in my life.

But that was almost four years ago, and at that time I had shocking red hair and was thirty pounds lighter. So I was more than a little shy to meet these guys again. Sometimes we put too much stock in appearances and forget that some people really love you for what's inside- really. It's hard for me to believe that at times. This nervousness made me put off meeting them, when Hiroshima is less than three hours away. When Risa e-mailed me to see if I was free today for her family to come visit, I almost said no. How stupid of me.

Luckily I overcame my fear and said yes. So Mr. and Mrs. Miyake and their son Sena came to visit me today. (Risa is currently attending college in Kobe so she wasn't able to come. Another time.) They wanted to go visit the Tottori Sand Dunes, which I had been wanting to see anyway. It was ridiculously great. No one fainted at the sight of me. Mr. and Mrs. Miyake haven't changed a bit. But Sena has definitely grown up- the last time I saw him he was in fifth grade. Mrs. Miyake says the day I left Hiroshima she found him on my bed crying that I'd gone. Now, he's almost an adult- about to graduate high school and plans to attend a college in Hiroshima for Engineering. He works part time at a Ramen shop. In fact, their whole family has cool and particularly Japanese-ey jobs. The dad works at a nori (seaweed) factory, the mom sells menswear, and Risa works at Lawson's, perhaps Japan's most prominent convenience store. What a great bunch. Not only that, but they brought me gifts of an amazing scarf and three pairs of super cute socks, which (aside from chocolate) are my two favorite things in the whole world. Did I mention these are great people?

Now, my state has the Indiana Dunes, which I went to once in fifth grade, but they were nothing compared to this. Tottori prefecture is famous for these dunes. They are literally like mountains. You can peer over them and see the sea. Climbing them made my rear end and thighs burn like mad. And for some reason they had camels that you can pet. The Japanese word for camel is 駱駝 or "rakuda" which sounds for all the world like a loanword (like "terebi" for television or "sutoroberi" for strawberry). But there is kanji for it, so I'm stumped. I can't find the answer so my mind is itching, not that any of you really care about nerdy Japanese language nuances, so I will get back to the dunes. After climing the dunes we went to pet said camels, and for a coupe hundred yen got to do the tourist thing and climb on their back for a picture. I got to pet an especially handsome guy whose hair was whiter than sand. I liked him a lot. I wish I had a pet camel instead of my stinky goldfish. We then bought some omiyage- Tottori's meibutsu or specialty item is its pears, so we bought many a pear flavored item. We then drove back to Matsue and did some shopping before returning home.

Sitting here at my computer, typing away, I am still warm from the kindness of this family. Sometimes our fear gets in the way of doing what is really best for us. I'm so thankful mine didn't stop me from seeing these wonderful people again. P.S. I love you rakuda

Monday, October 12, 2009

Random Unimportant Things

As I am typing right now, four watercolors are drying in the sun on my porch in the chilly Autumn air. I am wearing some new pajamas that I bought yesterday in a shopping spree for warm clothes, and I just finished a bowl of oatmeal. Life is pretty good.

But this week has been a challenging one. When people think of "life abroad" they imagine a romantic life full of new tastes, colors, and sounds. Not to say there isn't plenty of that. It's just that in real life you can't edit out the long hours of solitude or the awkward half conversations or the frustrations of fractured communication. There are many ups and downs to this life. I am living in a country where I am distinctly an outsider and am constantly reminded of that fact. I look and act different than everyone around me, and in a country that at times values the homogeneity of its people and their way of thinking this distinction is, well, a distinct problem.
It's been an odd week, so it's time for an odd blog.

Here are some glimpses of random events that happened this week.

Tuesday: I spent the morning at Kamedake elementary. As I might have previously mentioned, in Japan there are six periods in a day. At the elementary schools at most I will teach two periods. That leaves me with a lot of free periods. So I sat in on the first and second grade PE class one period. Today's lesson? Sumo wresting. It was so cute- their teacher was quite serious about instructing them on REAL sumo- "Start every movement from the right to the left! Show your intention on your face! A straight back looks strong- a curved back looks weak" and so on. Like-sized kids were paired up with each other and were encouraged to wrestle. Soon after the principal came out and joined in the fun. Willing kids battled with him- this man four times their size. He was very good with them; if he thought they were making a worthy effort he let them win but if he felt they were not doing their best he shouted out corrections until they improved.

I made the mistake of wresting with trying this activity- which resulted in a rip in my pants. Right in the crotch. That's right.

So I scurried of to the local convenience store in the hopes of finding a sewing kit. There was none. In my desperation I chose the cheapest stapler I could find and brought it to the counter. What else was I going to do? Even stapling my pants was better than accidentally flashing my afternoon school.
"You don't want this stapler" the lady said. "It's so old." "That's no concern" I tried to tell her. But she wouldn't listen. Finally I told her that what I REALLY wanted was a sewing kit. She immediately ran off to find the other clerk who produced the desired kit. "Can I use your bathroom?" I asked. "Oh, we don't have a bathroom" she responded. "Where is the rip?" Red-faced, I pointed to the ripped region. Her eyes widened in comprehension, and they led me to the back and guarded the door. I fixed the problem and came out quite relieved and no longer a threat to public decency. She started to ring up my stapler. "Oh, I don't need that anymore, now that I used that sewing kit" I said. This time her eyes widened in horror. "You were going to use it for THAT?" she bleated. I laughed and nodded, thanked her for the use of the sewing kit, and ran off before any more could be said.
Upon arriving at my afternoon school that day I was informed that we were going to gather chestnuts instead of having class. Next week the school lunch was to be chestnut rice, so we had to gather enough to make pots and pots of this delicacy. Chestnuts, huh. For any of you who have never seen a raw chestnut before they are certainly a sight to behold. The very outer layer is an angry, prickly, nest of evil. The inner shell is a tough fortress guarding the tiny nugget of meat inside. When chestnuts fall on the ground in a few days the prickly part will open up to reveal the inner shell. I and the third and fourth graders gathered enough chestnuts to feed an army of Japanese youngsters. Ah, the life of a teacher in rural Japan.

Wednesday: Stress. At elementary and middle schools everyone eats the same lunch. And kids are expected to eat it all, no matter whether they are full or don't like what's served or just plain being contrary- a clean plate is the only way. Unfortunately that goes for teachers too. So, being a picky eater, lunch has been hard for me. They don't make me eat any of the meat that is included in the lunch, but unfortunately here when you say you don't eat meat it doesn't register that pork, chicken, and fish are actually meat too (Like the scene from "my big fat greek wedding"- You don't eat meat? No problem. I'll cook lamb!) Not only that, but the servings are pretty big, and fried food is often featured on the menu. This is a problem for me. So lunch is stressful. Plus, I heard this day that my Grandma was very ill and in the hospital, and my poor old dog had also taken a turn from the worse. To top it off I was freezing, lonely, and could not get a hold of my supervisor. Being a blonde, vegetarian in Japan who only speaks enough Japanese to make herself slightly understood can get old after a while. I am sometimes too poignantly an outsider. Slight breakdown. But I've learned that on days like this all you can do is continue, and wait for the storm to blow over. And it did.

Thursday: Typhoon, which was kind of a dissappointment. I was expecting some of the schools to blow away, or at least Japan Car to go flying. But all that happened was some wind and a lot of rain.

Saturday: Kindergarten Sports Day. Imagine a dozen adorable Japanese toddlers running around with their parents doing silly sports such as grabbing bread from a pole with their teeth or putting on a dance where they were dressed as mushrooms. Ridiculously cute. Then add a handful of elementary school kids who were infinitely interested in playing with me, sitting on my lap, feeding me poisonous looking berries (don't worry, I lived) and playing with my hair. Top it off with a certificate of participation hand drawn by the little ones, and you have one very heartwarming morning. In the afternoon I watched Terminator for the first time with the Okuizumo guys. I'm now slightly more American.

Sunday: Went to Izumo to purchase many warm clothes. I trekked off to Uniqlo- the Gap of Japan, except a little more affordable. Most clothes in Japan for girls are definitely not made for curvy blonde girls from America. They would make me look like an escaped hobo with a penchant for glitter and bows. But Uniqlo has a fairly normal selection of clothes, and I happened to arrive on a sale day. I am now a warm, happy lady.

Monday: Today was a holiday- National Feild and Sports day or something. Anyway this morning I helped Mr. and Mrs. Fukuda harvest their rice. When else in my life would I have this chance? Today we were seperating rice from its straw stems. We used a machine to do the seperating. Mr. Fukuda took down bunches of rice from that had been drying (on one of those structures featured in my "Honorable Rice" blog ) and handed them to me. I proceeded to feed them into a machine with monstrous metal teeth that chewed the rice off and spit the unwanted straw on one side, the gross bugs and other organic litter out the other, and poured the clean unhulled rice into bags. Luckily being a 3-D art student I am perfectly accustomed to machines that threaten to mame or kill me, and the Fukudas were impressed by my aptitude. Mrs. Fukuda then tied up the unwanted straw into bushels. We finished quickly and sat down on the straw- "Sofa" Mr. Fukuda said, pointing to the bushels and laughed. The Fukuda's daughter Kyoko brought us onigiri and we ate it in the fresh air. The sun was shining and the sky was a beautiful clear blue. A great day for rice farming, if I do say so myself.

There is a saying taught to me by my very favorite Japanese man- Mr. Motohide. It says:
雪 もつもれば山となる- even snow, when it accumulates, becomes a mountain. I have found this to be true in many ways. If we let the frustrations and loneliness pile up, it becomes disastrous. We have to let such things blow away. But we have to be careful to let the happy moments, the moments of warmth and community pile up then we can really realize how blessed we are.

Life abroad is sometimes very hard. But more than it is hard it is worth it.

Sunday, October 4, 2009

Ehhhh? Moments- Seafood Edition

Yes, folks, it's high time for another edition of Ehhh? Moments! As you are all probably aware Japan is known for its delicious and sometimes unusual sea food. Sushi? Delicious! Sashimi? Fantastic! But Japan's love of seafood does not stop there. I've encountered a variety of unusual sea life cuisine- from brightly colored Gunkan Maki (Battleship Roll!) prepared in sushi restaraunts, to the snaily Turban Shell so popular in the Oki Islands, to the Saba served whole (bones, eyes, guts, and all) in school lunches- I've seen so many great and slightly gross things. Here are a couple of the more unusual fishy things I've run across.

Giant tuna head, anyone? This big boy was sitting in the middle of a fish aisle in a nearby supermarket. If you were to take a peek inside you would still find his skull, organs, and part of his spine still intact. (When you are paying almost nine dollars for a fish head you want it all, right?) And just for reference this thing is about the size of MY head, which is not small as human heads go. I'm not sure what he would be used for- maybe soup broth? but he was certainly a shock to see. Giant bluefin tuna are the king of fishes in Japan. In America I saw a Discovery Channel program on bluefin tuna fishermen. The poor fishermen spend weeks and weeks on the sea in the hopes of catching just one tuna. But a single bluefin can go for $2000 to $20000 in a fish market depending on the size and fat content involved. Intense, huh? Think on that next time you are chewing some delicious maguro rolls.

Yes, you're seeing right- this is an entire package of tiny dried crabs. Called Tamago-kani 玉子かに or "egg crabs" these little guys are eaten whole like potato chips, supposedly a good pairing for a cold glass of Asahi. Apparently the shells are kind of chewy. Ewwww. Ingredients? Corn starch, sugar, MSG, sweet sake, salt, and tiny but whole crabs. I still haven't decided yet if I've become adventurous enough in my seafood eating that I would try one of these guys. Maybe just one. With my eyes closed. And a trash can nearby.

These tiny
tiny fish are called jako- chirimenjako to be exact. Jako are surprisingly common in Japanese cuisine. They mix them in with rice to make jako-onigiri, they sprinkle them on stir fry, they serve them with school lunches. I actually ate some jako-onigiri prepared by a cooking class at the local community center. You can buy them in pretty much any supermarket- right next to the fish cakes and the fish eggs. They re not on the top of my list of things I'd like to eat- not even in the top thousand- but they weren't terrible. The texture was kind of unnerving and I never like my food to look at me. But supposedly they are full of calcium and very good for you. I, however, prefer to take my calcium in Frozen Yogurt form.

Did this whet your appetite? Eat up, America!

Saturday, October 3, 2009


This Thursday I got to experience on of the most unusual festivals ever- Oshiko Matsuri. At least that's what the name sounded like to me. When I arrived at my afternoon school on Thursday, Ai Elementary, I was informed that I should expediently finish sixth period and then scuttle off to the festival. Now mind you, I had no idea what festival they were talking about or where it was. They pleasantly said I should just look for the crowd of people and follow them. Oh, dear.
Luckily Fukuda-san saved me. Just as I was steeling myself to leave my apartment and wander aimlessly around Ai, she called me. I walked with her and her husband over to a local shrine I had run past several times before but never really took any notice of. Here they are with a small boy who face bombed my picture. Too cute. I especially like the heeled slippers Mr. Fukuda-san is wearing- the kind especially favored by older local men around here. Tee hee.

The men of Ai gathered in their traditional robes with their sleeves tied up- obviously there was some work to be done. Fukuda-san told me that in Shinto religions women are not really welcome to participate in festivals. "How sexist!" I thought. Until I saw what the men proceeded to do.
The Oshiko-matsuri centers around an object called the o-mikoshi. A mikoshi
神輿 is a small portable shrine that is said to house the local deity. This shrine has two mikoshi- a fancy laquered and painted one and a plain but sturdy wooden one ready to get down and dirty. After giving donations to the priest and partaking in some godly sake and uncooked rice, we were ready to begin. Four villagers started carrying the plain mikoshi away from the shrine through the main gate. Then, much to my surprise, the high priest pushed it down the stairs into the crowd of village men. On the right you can see the men of Ai attempting to crush each other to death. I still am not entirely sure what the purpose of this is. Another lady tried to explain that if a man can get the kami out of the shrine it will bring him and his family honor. But that doesn't explain the men on the outside of the circle pushing the other guys. See that turban man in the suit? His job is to push people. I was seriously confused. Every few minutes the mean would start shouting and as a group heave to the right as if they were trying to pull something out or pick up the shrine. But nothing ever happened. About ten minutes later the high priest climbed on top of the men and waved a flag. And that was that. The fight disbanded, and the men were returned to their wives. Mr. Fukuda-san's toenail had somehow been ripped off (although his plan was to stay on the outskirts of this shindig he said he accidentally got shoved inside). His kimono was also ripped. But he said this wasn't so bad- many years ago the men were actually supposed to try and CATCH the mikoshi after it was pushed down the steps, but too many people died or were seriously injured. So now they just try and crush each other, and suffer some scrapes and bruises gladly. The fancy mikoshi was carried from the shrine through the main gate away to a clearing where the priests started praying around it. The tired men were given some holy sake and some raw beans that were supposed to purify the body. (During this festival followers are not allowed to eat meat- hah! Take that, carnivores!). The priests are the guys on the left in the white with black hats. We stood for a while and watched while they prayed and ate, but then decided it was time to leave. The Fukuda's treated me to a delicious dinner feast- the table was set with sushi, sashimi, tempura, boiled vegetables, and so much other food I expected a small army to pop up and dig in at any time. Not to mention beer and several bottles of sake. How many people showed up in total? Ten. Two of them girls under seven. The Fukudas sure know how to set a feast. On the left is the adorable boiled vegetables known as sansai 山菜 eaten often in the Buddhist tradition of shōjin ryōri. Tiny spiral ferns? Bows of Wakame? How cute!

in the back is Baba- Mrs. Fukuda-san's mom, then on baba's right are Mr. and Mrs. Fukuda. On baba's left are Mrs. Fukuda's older sister and husband. Later another sister and her two grandchildren showed up, and the Fukuda's eldest son Chihiro and his wife stopped by as well.
We chatted the night away and the conversation got more and more confused and lively as the night went on. Chihiro and his wife were infinitely amused by the American pronunciation of the word "cheeseburger" and asked me to repeat it several times. I played string tricks with the girls and they were astonished that we do them in America as well. "Unbelievable" to quote Chihiro.

I talked later with Nozomi-san (Non-chan for short), a local girl with whom I've made friends, about this festival. She said that the Japanese put less value on small injuries to their bodies than they do the spirit of community and festivity. So they are glad to suffer a broken toe or scratch as long as everyone is together. "It's kind of strange, isn't it?" she said.
Strange, maybe. But cool? Definitely.